Why Vintage Knitwear Deserves Special Care

Vintage knitwear—whether a Shetland crewneck from the 1950s, a cashmere cardigan from the 1960s, or a Fair Isle pullover from the 1970s—represents a level of quality increasingly rare in modern manufacturing. The wool is often superior (longer staple lengths, better processing), the construction is more substantial (tighter gauges, more yarn), and the dyes are more stable.

But this quality comes with responsibility. Proper care isn't just about preservation—it's about maintaining the character, fit, and longevity that made these pieces worth collecting in the first place.

Understanding Vintage Wool

Types of Wool Commonly Found

Shetland Wool

From Shetland sheep in Scotland
Slightly coarse texture (part of its charm)
Excellent warmth-to-weight ratio
Natural water resistance
Characteristic subtle flecking

Lambswool

First shearing of young sheep
Softer than regular wool
Fine fibers create smooth texture
Less durable than mature wool
Often found in higher-end vintage pieces

Cashmere

From Kashmir goats
Extremely soft and fine
More delicate than sheep's wool
Pills more easily but can be managed
Premium vintage pieces often 100% cashmere

Merino

Fine wool from Merino sheep
Soft, less itchy than standard wool
Good moisture wicking
Often blended with other fibers

What Makes Vintage Different

Vintage knitwear often features:

Longer staple lengths: Fibers 3-5 inches vs. modern 1-2 inches
Tighter gauge: More stitches per inch, denser fabric
Better twist: Yarn spun tighter, more durable
Natural processing: Less chemical treatment
Full-fashioned construction: Pieces shaped during knitting, not cut

The Cardinal Rules of Wool Care

Rule 1: Never Use Hot Water

Heat causes wool fibers to felt—they lock together irreversibly, shrinking the garment. Always use cool or lukewarm water (30°C/86°F maximum).

Rule 2: Never Agitate

The washing machine's agitation accelerates felting. Hand washing with gentle movement is safest.

Rule 3: Always Dry Flat

Hanging stretches the knit, especially when wet. Lay flat on towels to maintain shape.

Rule 4: Wash Infrequently

Wool is naturally antimicrobial and odor-resistant. Air between wears, spot clean when possible, and wash only when necessary.

Hand Washing Vintage Knitwear

You'll Need:

Large basin or clean sink
Cool water
Wool-specific detergent (Eucalan, Soak, or Woolite)
Clean towels
Flat drying surface

The Process:

1. Preparation

Turn sweater inside out
Check for damage, loose buttons, or weak seams
Remove lint with a sweater comb
Take pre-wash measurements (chest, length, sleeve) for reference

2. Washing

- Fill basin with cool water
- Add small amount of wool wash (follow product directions)
- Submerge sweater, gently pressing to saturate
- Let soak 15-20 minutes (no agitation)
- Gently squeeze (never wring or twist)
- Drain water

3. Rinsing

- Refill basin with cool clean water
- Submerge and gently move sweater
- Lift and drain
- Repeat until no soap remains
- Press out excess water (don't wring)

4. Drying

- Lay flat towel on floor or table
- Place sweater on towel in natural shape
- Roll towel with sweater inside to remove water
- Unroll, transfer to dry towel
- Reshape to original measurements
- Lay flat until completely dry (24-48 hours)
- Turn occasionally for even drying

Dealing with Common Issues

Moths and Prevention

Moths are the nemesis of wool collectors. They're attracted to:

Dirty garments (especially with food or sweat residue)
Dark, undisturbed spaces
Natural fibers

Prevention:

Clean before storing
Use cedar (blocks or balls)
Store in breathable cotton bags
Add lavender sachets
Inspect regularly
Keep storage areas light and aired

If You Find Moths:

Isolate affected garment immediately
Freeze for 72 hours to kill eggs and larvae
Inspect entire collection
Clean thoroughly
Replace cedar
Consider professional storage

Pilling

Pills are small fiber balls that form from friction. They're more common with softer wools (cashmere, lambswool) and aren't a sign of poor quality.

Removal:

Use a sweater comb or stone (not a razor)
Gently shave in one direction
Work on a flat surface
Regular de-pilling actually strengthens fabric
Pills are surface fibers, not structural

Stretched Cuffs or Collar

Over time, cuffs and collars can lose elasticity.

Restoration:

- Wet only the stretched area with cool water
- Gently reshape to desired size/tension
- Lay flat to dry
- For severe stretching:
  - Wet entire sweater
  - Use gentle heat from hair dryer while reshaping
  - This encourages fibers to tighten

Shrinkage

If a sweater has shrunk:

- Fill basin with cool water
- Add hair conditioner (softens fibers)
- Submerge sweater for 30 minutes
- Gently stretch while wet
- Pin to measurements on towel
- Let dry completely

Note: This works for minor shrinkage. Severe felting is usually irreversible.

Odors

Wool naturally resists odors, but vintage pieces may smell musty.

Solutions:

Air outside on cloudy day (UV can fade)
Hang in bathroom during shower (steam refreshes)
Spritz with vodka/water solution (50/50)
Add white vinegar to rinse water
Store with activated charcoal

Storage Strategies

Short-Term (Daily/Weekly)

Fold, don't hang (prevents stretching)
Allow to air before storing
Use sweater shapers if displaying
Keep in well-ventilated space

Long-Term (Seasonal)

Clean before storing
Completely dry (any moisture invites mildew)
Fold in tissue paper
Store in breathable containers (not plastic)
Add cedar and lavender
Store in cool, dry, dark place

Display

If displaying vintage knitwear:

Use padded hangers for short periods only
Rotate displayed pieces
Protect from direct sunlight
Keep away from heat sources
Consider UV-protective glass if framing

Special Considerations

Cashmere

More delicate than other wools:

Wash even less frequently
Use cashmere-specific detergent
Expect pilling (it's normal)
Fold with acid-free tissue
Never wring or twist

Fair Isle and Intarsia

Multiple colors = multiple dye lots:

Test for colorfastness before washing
If colors bleed, separate and wash individually
Dry extra flat to maintain pattern registration
Store with tissue between layers

Buttons and Details

Remove special buttons before washing
Replace with temporary buttons
Sew back on after drying
Store valuable buttons separately

Repairs

Holes and weak spots deserve professional attention:

Don't delay repairs (damage spreads)
Find a reweaving specialist for valuable pieces
Swiss darning can invisibly repair knits
Document repairs for collection records

When to Use Professional Cleaning

Consider professional care for:

Valuable vintage pieces (pre-1960s)
Delicate intarsia or Fair Isle
Large garments (coats, capes)
Pieces with stubborn stains
Any damage requiring repair

Find a cleaner who:

Specializes in vintage textiles
Understands wool and cashmere
Hand processes delicate items
Doesn't use harsh chemicals

The Philosophy of Care

Caring for vintage knitwear is meditative. The careful hand washing, the patient drying, the folding with tissue—these aren't chores, they're connections to the garment's history and your role as its current custodian.

Each sweater carries the story of the sheep that grew the wool, the mill that spun it, the knitter who shaped it, and everyone who wore it before you. Proper care ensures that story continues, that the sweater remains wearable, that its quality endures.

Final Tips

Trust your instincts: If something seems risky, it probably is
Document everything: Photos, measurements, repair records
Learn from mistakes: Every collector has shrunk a sweater
Join communities: Other collectors share knowledge and solutions
Enjoy wearing them: Vintage knitwear was made to be worn

In our next care guide: Maintaining vintage leather goods—from bags to shoes, keeping leather supple and beautiful for decades to come.